![]() |
It's all about the angle. This isn't as dicey as it looks. Even my dogs made it to the summit of Mount Yale. |
![]() |
Uncompahgre Peak, 14,321' Another walk-up with a non-technical approach. Also done with dogs. |
The relentless yet casual-seeming effort we put into the creation and maintenance of our virtual personas is something most folks don’t want to admit doing, yet we can all spot the behavior among our friends. Sure, not everyone bothers to be that fussy with their online appearance, and some are altogether careless about what they post, but even that becomes an expression of how they want to be perceived. Most of us seem happy with a slightly hyperbolic version of ourselves where we are more mindful or funny or politically engaged or skilled at spontaneously whipping up an amazing-looking meal from food we just happened to grow in our organic gardens. All of our passions and proclivities are in high relief, enthusiastically courting affirmation. We don’t just love science anymore, we F***ing Love Science.
All of this is good fun, but it’s helpful to recognize the gap between our constructed selves and the raw, un-enhanced, unplanned and often uninteresting version that is closer to who we likely are. Who hasn’t had the unexpected letdown of bumping into a good Facebook friend in the grocery store only to have an awkward conversation that made you question how well you really know each other. “Well, see you on Facebook,” we’d say in parting. And truly, we’ll be relieved to get back into that formatted social setting where the choreography of interaction is more familiar and witty.
Similarly, though we ought to know ourselves better, the gap between our public and private selves can be disappointingly wide. This morning I took a hike up in the mountains, and found myself spending much of the time in that gap.
When I hike alone I find the barrier between my thought-life and the world outside me to be surprisingly permeable. Those fancy Harvard-educated transcendentalist poets of the nineteenth century had a lot to say about the merging of the self with the natural world. Guys like Emerson and Thoreau spent a lot of time wandering around the New England countryside by themselves trying to define an authentic spirituality that was rooted in both nature and human individuality. Their efforts were in stark reaction to the industrial revolution and the turmoil it caused as American society reorganized itself around practices of efficiency, top-down organizational structure, mass production, and a life indoors. In that ethos, nature was primarily regarded as a resource to be exploited without regulation. Perhaps the words of those writers wouldn’t seem so romantic and effete today if we weren’t still largely under the spell of growth and efficiency as it was defined two hundred years ago. Nevertheless, even today, time spent utterly alone in nature - particularly on top of a mountain - will open you up to ideas of about “the sublime” whether you’re much into the topic or not. It just happens. And even if you aren’t exactly spiritual, you may find yourself having a numinous experience. If so, just go with it. You can decide what you believe about it later.
Those are the kind of things I think about when I’m alone in nature. Sometimes. But this morning as I ascended the trail to the Continental Divide above Berthoud Pass in Colorado, I was really thinking about my body and how much it hurt. The trail is rated “easy,” but in Colorado that just means you don’t have to use your hands to help you climb. As the trees gave way to tundra, I could really feel the effects of my relative un-fitness, and the unwelcome heft of my over-wintered frame. I took a quick inventory of the specialized aches and pains my middle-aged anatomy had accumulated. Nothing new to speak of, thankfully. The sharp tightness in my lungs was because I wasn’t yet accustomed to the thin air. I would get there, as I had done in past seasons, but not on the first day. I reminded myself that this was a training hike, and that meant a little discomfort. But the secret pleasure of this particular workout, I knew from past visits, is that after about an hour of steady ascent you top out on the Divide and for hundreds of miles to the north and south it’s pure Sound of Music heavenliness, and relatively easy going. At that point I can forget about my body for a little while.
The final pitch just below the Divide is a steep one. The trail zigizags sharply up the last couple hundred vertical feet through blankets of tiny arctic wildflowers. On the trail above me I heard voices and looked up in time to see two guys and a dog disappear onto the ridge. Later, I met up with them sheltered on the lee side of a rock outcropping enjoying a fairly elaborate meal. They had real home-cooked breakfast items spread out in front of them in various Tupperware and tinfoil arrangements and were as relaxed as anyone I’ve ever seen on top of a mountain. I wasn’t completely surprised by the food. I’d seen it before. I once climbed a fourteener with a friend who pulled half a rotisserie chicken from her backpack when we reached the peak. Why make yourself miserable with energy bars and trail mix? If you’re going to do all that work to get to the summit, you might as well reward yourself right then and there.
![]() |
Two guys and a dog |
A little ways from the spot I’d chosen to take a break, I began to feel light-headed and depleted of energy. These are generally not good signs, especially at altitude, so I quickly ducked down off the ridge to get out of the wind and set to work getting my body chemistry back on track. I found myself spreading out my remaining food like those guys had done, but mine didn’t look like a sumptuous brunch. Just a bag of jerky, a little box of chocolate milk, an individually wrapped string cheese, and a small bag of dry dogfood left over from a hike I did last week - with dogs. I shifted some rocks to get more comfortable and poked a straw into my milk box. I stretched my legs out onto the edge of an immense snow cornice still clinging to the lip of an ancient glacial cirque. The view before me was mind-bendingly beautiful. If I leaned way out I could see an arrangement of little ponds hundreds of feet below where the melt-water collected. A blanket of mixed conifers fanned out below the ponds and darkened the valley beyond. In the distance I could see a hairpin turn on the highway I came up, a bright ribbon of asphalt cleaving open the wilderness. I felt lucky. It took some effort, but I was doing something I love.
![]() |
Brunch with a view |
I sat there for a while and let the nutrients work their way into my blood and soak into my muscles. My goal, Stanley Mountain, was about a half hour further to the south. I still had time to “bag” it before I’d need to head back to treeline and beat the afternoon storms. But hadn’t I changed my goal twice already on this hike? At first I told myself I’d be happy to reach the Divide. When that proved easier than expected I chose this group of rocks. And now I was considering Stanley? What narrative was I trying to create and for whom? No one was here. No one knew I was even doing this. I already had all the photos I’d need to make a satisfactory status update on Facebook. I thought about the breakfast the two strangers were enjoying a ways back. Wasn’t that a solidly respectable goal? I decided it would be mine as well, and I used my remaining time to enjoy my uninspiring food as best I could, and just sit there and practice being still and quiet.
A lot of folks are happy to repeat the popular mantra “The journey is the destination” as some sort of affirmation about how they want to live. Lying back on top of that cliff I was convinced that for me, at that moment, I would benefit more from staying put than either journey or destination could offer. So I did. And as usually happens under such conditions, I was overcome with awe at my surroundings and my good fortune to be there. Every time I try to describe this effect I sound like a like a pot head. I used to say it felt like the top of my skull had come unhinged and raw beauty was being poured directly onto my brain, or like my head was a funnel open to the sky and some sort of divine blessing was flowing down into me. Flaky, like I said, but plenty of better writers than me have tried to describe it, only to veer off into some idiosyncratic mysticism of their own creation. What I know for sure is that access to this experience is rooted in the letting go of ego (easier to do when you are completely alone) and being receptive to a beauty so present it seems to almost have dimension and mass. Yet in much the same way that smoke or clouds can imitate solid shapes, it is fleeting and incomprehensible. I can never decide whether this experience is fundamentally aesthetic or spiritual or just some sort of physical rush from all the negative ions up there. There’s no reason to think it isn’t all three, wrapped up together like some sort of gift package, because more than anything it feels like a gift. Whatever it is, I’m always thankful for it and vow to try and bring a remnant of it back with me, somehow.
Back down at the parking lot, I sat in my car with the doors open and checked the photos on my smart phone. The selfies all sucked, as usual, but I had a handful of interesting shots that hinted at the experiences I had up on the roof of America. Just then my phone’s battery ran out and the screen went black. Whatever magic was trapped in my camera’s memory, if any, would have to wait until I got home to recover it. I sat there for a minute considering whether there was maybe a story I could fashion from my day. Probably not. Nothing actually happened, except for some guys eating eggs and waffles up on the Divide. Yet just that act of wondering triggered a process, both creative and destructive, as I set to work trimming away non-essential details from the narrative framework of my day. Maybe there was something there, maybe not. Already I was editing my own memory. This is just how it goes if you want stories.
I started the car and coasted most of the 78 miles back to my home, back to the part of my day that I traded in return for a little DWYL time. From here on out the afternoon would be ordinary, un-photogenic and even a little boring. I was perfectly okay with that. I had done something I loved and asked nothing more from it. For the time being at least, there was nothing more to want, except maybe to hear that pleasant little Facebook chime when people comment on my photos. There’s always that to look forward to.
![]() |
Stanley Mountain, 12,521' |